Bouvier breeders Bouvier des Flandres Breeder Ontario Quebec Nobleair Kennels

The Three T's

Three basic concepts could guide us in puppy rearing, Temperament, Training and Time. So simple are they, that some might not see them for what they are. Let's take a look at each of them.

Firstly Temperament
The most important starting point of all for your dog is the Temperament of his/her parents, especially the mother. She should be stable in many situations: friendly with strangers once she's checked them out, protective of her household, adaptable to changing situations, calm. Since over 90 percent of communication is non verbal, especially for young pups that can neither see nor hear, the messages that their Mom sends to them through her muscles and sinews are of the utmost importance. The 'everything is under control' type Mom passes that message to her little pups. The 'O no, what's going on, what do I do next?' Mom sends her fear and anxiety through her body to her pups. They cannot help but respond with fear and anxiety. Pay attention to the Mom's attitude.

Under temperament may I also add the breeder's temperament. Are they patient and kind with their dogs? Will they be available to you as mentors as your pup grows and changes, maybe becoming a real challenge to you? Do you feel comfortable to call them for even that really dumb question? Maybe it isn't dumb at all, and should be asked, now, not in six months after it's become a real issue. In a casual phone call you might get to talking about something that doesn't seem important, but the act of talking it out short circuits that problem that would have been otherwise. We see this all the time.

Now that breeder will want to be able to work with you too. Sometimes we run into the attitude 'now we've got our pup we don't need you any more'. It's a sad attitude that condemns the owners to stumbling around all by themselves. They go to this one and that one for questionable advice, which they apply haphazardly, and then wonder why that damned pup can't be trained. Every breed has its own particularities, and within a breed a line may have its own ways. Keeping good ties with your breeders will only bring you prompt and tested approaches to sometimes challenging growing pains. It provides them with timely feedback on their breeding program regarding the health and temperament of their offspring. Expect a responsible breeder to be calling you for updates and asking for photos of the pups as they grow into mature dogs. Your help with this is of the utmost importance to the breeding program. We take the greatest joy in the videos, photos and cards we get. They help to make the 365 day years worthwhile.

Secondly Training
There's the school of thought where owners say that they've trained dogs before so they don't need to attend obedience classes with their dogs. Oops, bad mistake. The Bouvier des Flandres is a big, powerful dog, that just happens to be very intelligent, willful and often dominant . They can wrap you around their paws so quickly. Get that pup into puppy school early on to get it used to all the noise, commotion, people, strange dogs, and most importantly, out of your house and backyard. It cannot be said often enough. You will never, ever regret the early investment you make in time and energy in your young dog. Every time you receive guests into your home and your dogs sits and stays to the side while you settle your people in, you will say a prayer of thanks.

When your Mom has to go into a residence and you present your dog for permission to visit her ( because she adores animals and misses her own dog terribly) and it is received gladly because it is quiet and well behaved, and then they ask you if other residents could visit with it also, you will beam with pride and immense joy watching your dog fulfill its destiny. Our therapy dogs create miracles wherever they go. Don't try to skimp on socializing and training your dog. The people that insist on going this route are the ones that later decide that they don't want their dogs any more. If you intend to proceed that way don't get a Bouvier.

Thirdly Time
The Bouvier des Flandres is a dog who's very nature, -that of being a herding dog,- , makes it need to be a central part of the family. By integrating it into your family your dog will have purpose and meaning in its life. Spending time with your Bouvier will be the best payback you can ever have. He's like a sponge, learning from every situation. This is a dog that needs to feel that he can contribute to the running of the household. He needs a job. Take him herding, carting, sledding, tracking, visiting at the nursing home, show him, teach him agility or obedience , or both. Every single thing you teach him will serve him in his life. I taught the sled dogs ha and gee ( left and right) so we could coordinate ourselves and not get killed on the trail. We use the same commands for herding off in the field, and for carting, and for maneuvering through crowded streets and the passageways of the hospital where I work. Nothing you teach your dog is lost on him. Time spent on you best friend is the greatest investment of all. Your time spent together becomes the cement for a bond that will last a lifetime.

Training Collars Our dogs wear a basic type of collar known as a training collar. It is a versatile collar that can be worn either as regular straight collar or a choke-type collar for training. Having a clip mechanism it goes on around the neck, not over the head. Its size is fitted to the dog's neck. They come in two-inch increment sizes, and because they are very inexpensive, a whole set can be bought that will allow your dog to always have the appropriate collar for his neck size. For twenty dollars or so you have a set of collars that fit from the small pup to the grown adult dog. What is special here is that the collars are tailor-fitted to the dog. The collar, when it is well fitted, sits high on the dog's neck, right up near the jaw line and behind his ears at the back of his head. We are accustomed to seeing dogs with great big collars that sit down low across the collar bone. Sounds like a yoke for hauling heavy loads. And dogs wearing them do very often haul owners around on walks. The lower the collar sits on the dog's neck the more power he has to pull. The training collar is small and discrete. The smaller diameter of the material (usually woven cotton) makes it so that the dog quickly feels the direction or correction that the master gives. It is unnecessary to haul the dog around or to give big jerks on the lease. A subtle wrist flick can be felt by the dog. Fit is very important. A well fitted collar only has room for two or three fingers underneath when it is in place. By switching the snap from the dead ring to the mobile ring, it is quickly changed from an everyday collar to a choke collar. (A dog must never be left on a choke collar when unattended.) It is important with a long-haired dog like a Bouvier des Flandres that the hair in the neck region be trimmed back, or it will simply catch in the collar and impede it from functioning. Your traditional Bouvier cut does keep the hair in the neck region very short, and for very practical reasons,- both cleanliness and collar wear. There is also a more vain reason, that of showing off their magnificent big heads and flowing beards. When applying a training collar to a dog, the clip is held in the left hand as you face the		Training collar showing snap attachment on dead ring, with mobile ring. Training collar with snap attached to mobile ring, giving a choke-style collar. Note the "P". Viewing: Back of dog's head as it sits on my left side. A well-fitted training collar on choke setting. It sits up near the ears. Viewing: Dog on my left side. Choke collar released in slack position.
dog. When left slack, the collar looks like a "P" as you face the dog. This will permit you to end up with the choker-style collar on correctly. A dog should walk on the master's left side at all times. An improperly applied choke collar will choke the dog and never release properly. When applied correctly the mechanism naturally slides back into a slack position when no tug is made. It would be normal for a dog to fight while on walks if he were continually being choked. Do not assume that all trainers are checking equipment during classes. Only trainers who are really on the ball realize how properly used quality equipment tips the scales in favor of successful training. An equipment check should be part of your first class. Do not be surprised if the trainer wants dogs out of those thick, leather collars. You may be asked to take off the ID collar, and the electric fence collar, and the flea collar. The helpless dog cannot possibly understand what the master wants of him with this complicated mess on. Small pups who are being introduced to collars should not be put on the choker. The experience should be a positive one. Early training sessions are simply to get the pup used to the sensation of the collar and the weight of the leash. Let him drag a short leash around the kitchen for 15 minutes. Then again the next day. When he's accepted the notion take the lead in your hand and just go around with him in the room. Go stepwise and always make sessions short and sweet. Give lots of praise and end when the going is good. The goal is to make that collar and leash positive items for that little dog. Plan for many long, pleasant walks together over the years to come.

Home Away From Home: The Crate

When it’s time to plan for the homecoming of a young puppy and its training to cleanliness, we look to our trusted crates. The crate is useful for several reasons:

1 A dog loves a den, -a dark cozy place to sleep or rest. Seeking out a protected place to rest is natural for all creatures, man included. The crate can be set up just like a den or cave for the pup;

2 No dog wants to soil his bed. The pup feels the urge to pee of poo when he wakes up. Since he doesn’t want to soil his sleeping area, having him in the crate buys the guardian precious moments to get the pup out the door. Otherwise the quiet pup might have awakened and gone off to pee in a corner, while the unsuspecting guardian went about his/her business.

3 Pups living with children need a time-out zone away from the kids. Kids can harass a pup until it is exhausted, and then nips in frustration. Teaching kids that they must not bother the pup when he seeks quiet time in his crate protects both the pup and the kids. Small kids and pups should be supervised at all times.

4 The crate provides a secure place for a dog traveling in the car. The pup in the crate is not underfoot or climbing across the steering wheel distracting the driver from his work, -driving. Nor does he become a flying projectile if you brake suddenly. You need not worry about chewed upholstery or have to clean nose prints off all of the windows if the dog is secured in a crate. An added bonus is that motels will usually allow a crate-trained dog to stay, whereas he might otherwise have been refused lodging.

Getting started. A crate in the corner of your kitchen or other safe room that the family spends a lot of time in, set up with a comfy blanket and chew toys, becomes a place the pup can call his own. Covering a wire crate with a blanket makes it dark and safe. It should be big enough for him to stand up, turn around and lie down in. A crate that is too large may invite the pup to mess off in the back corner. *We like to use the kitchen because the tile floor is easy to clean and there is no carpeting to invite accidental pees. Our young pups do not get the run of the house until after they have proved themselves trustworthy and even then, only under close supervision do they explore elsewhere.* At first the crate is left open for the pup to explore and play in if he wants to. Once he’s checked it out, watch for him to start to get sleepy, then gently move him into the crate, settle him and quietly close the door. By staying within hearing range, you hear the first stirring noises as the pup starts to wake. Open the door, praise and greet the pup, and then take him straight outside for pees/poos and more praise. A win-win situation for all. A positive, cozy sleep and training for the pup, no mess to clean up for the guardian, -lots more time to play!!

If you have just one crate, take it into your bedroom for the night. Otherwise set up a second one next to your bed. *Isolating a small pup off by himself won’t let anyone get a wink of sleep. He’s always been with mom and his littermates, so suddenly being all by himself would be very scary.* A pup can hold himself for an hour longer than his age. At three months of age he can hold for four hours. He will need to be let out during the night. A restless pup needing to pee will awaken you, if you listen. Carry the pup outside in your arms or he may leave a trail behind to be cleaned up. Gives lots of praise for a pee outside, get each of you back to your respective beds, and lights out again. Be very matter of fact, no fussing. A gentle, comforting tone of voice can be used to reassure him you’re close by. Be firm with yourself, if necessary, not to let a crying pup out of the crate. You’d be sending the message that that was the way to get out. (A gradual introduction to the crate helps prevent such a ’fit’ from happening.) When the morning arrives, get him out at the first rustles, carry him out the door, and praise him for a ’job’ well done outside. “Good peepee outside!” Give the verbal command and praise while he does his duty, each time, and he’ll learn to pee on command with time.

Successful crate training requires that the guardian pay attention. Listen for the sounds of the pup waking up and be there to let him out promptly. When he’s out with you watch for the signs of a pup needing to void (ie. pee/poo). Typically they are: sniffing around; going around in circles on the spot; walking ’tight assed’; a determined search for the ideal spot; a little whine; and the squat. An acknowledged rule of housetraining is: If you don’t catch the pup in the act of peeing or pooing you can’t correct or reprimand him. He will not make the connection between his act and your anger. Chalk it up to experience and pay more attention. Keep him in a limited space with you and observe him.

Words of Caution: Where we see people run into trouble with crates is when they use them as a form of punishment or as a prison. The sanctuary or refuge aspect of the crate is ruined if an angry guardian stuffs a pup into a crate and slams the door, or if a pup is imprisoned 22 out of 24 hours a day in one. (Yes they go crazy too.) A Bouvier doesn’t need heavy disciplining, -he wants to please and he learns quickly. It’s up to the human to prepare for the pup, puppy proofing and setting up a winning setup. If you need a safe place for the pup for a longer time, alternatives include: a gated entranceway with newspapers; a safe room; a secured exercise pen (they can collapse otherwise); a dog run when he’s older. No dog need be ‘stored’ in a crate for days on end to loose his mind, his health and his spirit. Used correctly, the crate can be a wonderful tool. Give it a try.